Precious Gemstones in Traditional Indian Jewellery

By Priya Sharma3 min read
For centuries, Indian jewellery has been defined not just by its gold content but by the magnificent gemstones it showcases. The Navratna tradition — nine sacred gemstones representing celestial bodies — speaks to the deep cultural significance of gemstones in Indian heritage.

The Navratna: Nine Sacred Stones

Each of the nine gems corresponds to a celestial body in Vedic astrology:

1. Ruby (Manik) - Sun - Red corundum, represents power and passion

  • 2. Pearl (Moti) - Moon - Symbolizes purity and emotional balance
  • 3. Coral (Moonga) - Mars - Believed to bring courage and vitality
  • 4. Emerald (Panna) - Mercury - The stone of wisdom and communication
  • 5. Yellow Sapphire (Pukhraj) - Jupiter - Brings prosperity and wisdom
  • 6. Diamond (Heera) - Venus - Represents love and luxury
  • 7. Blue Sapphire (Neelam) - Saturn - The most powerful and scrutinized gem
  • 8. Hessonite (Gomed) - Rahu - Believed to counter negative influences
  • 9. Cat's Eye (Lehsunia) - Ketu - Protects against hidden enemies

    Emerald: The Rajput Favorite

    No gemstone is more associated with Indian royal jewellery than the emerald. The Maharajas of Rajasthan and Gujarat were particularly fond of Colombian emeralds, which arrived via Portuguese traders in the 16th century.

    The finest emeralds display a deep, vivid green with a slight bluish undertone. Inclusions — often called the 'jardin' or garden — are expected in natural emeralds and don't necessarily detract from their value.

    Ruby: The King of Gems

    Known as 'Ratnaraj' or the king of gems in Sanskrit, rubies have been prized across the Indian subcontinent for millennia. Burmese rubies from the Mogok Valley are considered the finest, displaying a rich 'pigeon's blood' red.

    In traditional jewellery, rubies are often combined with diamonds and emeralds in elaborate floral designs, creating a visual feast of color against gold.

    Uncut Diamonds (Polki)

    Unlike the faceted diamonds of Western jewellery, Polki diamonds are used in their natural, uncut form. This preserves the stone's organic shape and character, giving each piece a unique, one-of-a-kind quality.

    Polki jewellery has seen a major revival in recent years, appreciated for its raw, unpolished beauty and connection to traditional craftsmanship.

    Caring for Gemstone Jewellery

  • Store each piece separately to prevent harder stones from scratching softer ones
  • Clean with lukewarm water and mild soap using a soft brush
  • Have settings checked annually by a professional jeweller
  • Keep away from extreme temperatures and direct sunlight for extended periods
  • Ultrasonic cleaners can damage many gemstones — consult a professional first
    • GemstonesEducationTraditional
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