The Timeless Art of Kundan Jewellery Making

Kundan jewellery represents one of the oldest and most revered forms of jewellery making in India. Originating in the royal courts of Rajasthan and Gujarat, this intricate art form has been passed down through generations of skilled artisans.

The Art of Kundan Setting

At its heart, Kundan involves setting uncut gemstones — typically diamonds (polki), emeralds, rubies, or sapphires — into a framework of pure gold. Unlike modern prong or bezel settings, Kundan uses a unique technique where the gemstones are encased in highly refined gold foil.

The process begins with the 'ghat' or framework, which is crafted from 22K or 24K gold. Artisans then carefully shape each cavity to fit the gemstone perfectly. The stone is then set using a lacquer base and surrounded by thin gold foil that is pressed and shaped by hand — a technique requiring decades of experience to master.

Meenakari: The Hidden Art

One distinguishing feature of fine Kundan jewellery is the meenakari work on the reverse side. Meenakari is the art of enameling metal, where vibrant colors are fused onto the gold surface through a painstaking process of multiple firings.

Each color requires a separate firing at specific temperatures. The most skilled meenakari artisans can work with up to seven or eight colors on a single piece, creating intricate floral, geometric, or figurative patterns that rival the gemstone work on the front.

Regional Variations

While Kundan flourished in Rajasthan's royal courts, different regions developed their own distinctive styles. Jaipur remains the epicenter of traditional Kundan work, while Bikaner developed a unique style featuring lighter settings. Delhi's courts favored more elaborate designs with larger stones.

Preserving a Living Tradition

Today, a new generation of designers is reimagining Kundan for contemporary tastes without compromising the traditional techniques. At our Madhya Pradesh workshop, we work directly with artisan families who have practiced this craft for over seven generations.

Each piece takes anywhere from several days to several weeks to complete, depending on the complexity of the design and the number of stones involved. This is not mass production — it is wearable art.

Caring for Your Kundan Jewellery

Kundan jewellery requires mindful care. The gold foil setting is delicate and can be damaged by impact or exposure to water and chemicals. Always store your Kundan pieces in soft cloth pouches, away from other jewellery that might scratch the surface. Avoid wearing perfume or hairspray directly on the jewellery, and remove before bathing or swimming.

When cared for properly, Kundan jewellery becomes a treasured heirloom that can be passed down through generations.